Menswear is heating up this fall. Designers have brought color and humor to their collections this year. Here are three luxury brands that are redesigning menswear this season.
Sacai
“The core of my collection has always been based on the concept of hybridization – juxtaposition of classic and traditional aspects of items that turns into something completely new. I also wanted to show that my work is always multifaceted.” -Chitose Abe, Sacai Designer
Sacai’s fall and winter 2018 collection has been called gutsy and colorful. Tokyo based Japanese designer Chitose Abe collaborated with a Hawaiian shirt brand to develop her newest collection. The print for her collection was developed with the Reyn Spooner Hawaiian shirt company. She also borrowed a slogan from the New York Times, “truth, it’s more important now than ever”. She explained that it was not so much a political statement as a reminder to be true to yourself and to your craft.
From padded jackets with matching leggings to sweaters and a heavily fringed poncho, vivid colors leapt off the runway. Bright red, green and purple, colors that are not usually used together, worked well with her print and designs. A zippy patchwork jacket is one standout from her collection. Side zipped kilts also worked well and made a statement. Knits and shearling, one of our favorite textiles to sport this fall, were also featured in the Sacai 2018 fall menswear collection.
Henrik Vibskov
“For this season, we worked together with a Japanese stylist that we also used for a Tokyo show in October. He came up and did a bit of a different style with mixed layers, [and] sweaters outside of the jackets.” -Henrik Vibskov
With this collection, Henrik Vibskov seeks to point out our society’s obsession with measuring everything. “We measure ourselves: size, height, distance, amount, time, intelligence, popularity, and even feelings,” Vibskov said. “If we want to change what we care about, shouldn’t we change what we measure?” To illustrate this, his line features many oversized items, as well as numbers used as pattern and design elements.
Cardigans and sweaters featured grids and long lines, similar to those found on a measuring tape. Scarves and socks had numbers on them. Not every item overtly focus on measurement. His tasseled jackets and quilted outerwear are beautifully made. Oversized denim items were also well received. While he may not want us to measure success, we have to say that he scored highly.
Angus Chiang
“Taiwan has a special nickname, “Island of Scooter,” and it is our main inspiration for this season. The design concept illustrates a scooter rider’s behavior — clothing style and color — while also integrating a scooter’s contour lines and street signals. According to this concept, the collection also endows the freedom of riding through the wind, and pieces together with the imagery of “Dream Chasers.” It documents the people who are chasing after their dreams on this piece of land, and reevaluates the value of scooters and the special feelings people have for them.” – Angus Chiang
Humor, colors, and fun are the self described components of Angus Chiang collections, and they delivered exactly that this season. Angus Chiang offered runway interpretations of sports gear with this playful collection. Sports references are abundant. Motorcycle helmets are paired with metallic pants. License plate sweaters complement moto pants. Padded shoulders are exaggerated and reminiscent of football gear.
The pieces that do not have sports references still retain a sporty, lighthearted feel. One suit look had built in bags. Raw hemmed denim is casual and stylish all at once. This collection is youthful and vibrant.
See more of our favorite fall collections in this article about the perfect fall sweater for a night on the town. Then tell us which of these looks is your favorite.
